NYC INSIDER: JOHN DeLUCIE
INSIDER CRED:
• Chef/Partner of The Waverly Inn
…It may as well be called Vanity Fair: The Restaurant. Graydon Carter lured in the A-listers, and DeLucie keeps them begging for more.
• Author of The Hunger
…A behind-the-scenes tour of the NYC restaurant biz, from pork bellies to luminaries. You’ll laugh a lot, learn a lot, and love following DeLucie’s crazy climb up the culinary ladder. A must-read for foodies, New Yorkers who dine out, and anyone who’s ever wondered what being a star chef can do for your sex life.
• Born and raised in Brooklyn
… A New Yorker to the bone.
• A true fan and advocate of the NYC jazz, art and fashion scenes
…With friends and parties to match.
• Master behind the Waverly’s infamous (and ingenious) $55 Truffle Mac & Cheese
…John personally shaves the truffle onto every dish he’s there to send out. That alone is worth every penny.
• It’s been rumored that women have offered to sleep with him for a table at the Waverly.
…John declares: “This is patently untrue.” Still, the fact that the rumor exists totally bumps him up a notch.
Over two charming breakfasts at Morandi, the West Village’s open-air gem of a trattoria, John shared with me his love for jazz, art, fashion, espresso, the NY subway system, Miles Davis and all things New York. As it turned out, most of his favorite places in the city were comically in pointing distance. His favorite panini over to our left, the best falafel to the right, the greatest jazz shows across the street, his apartment around the corner… “You can tell I live in a bubble,” he laughed. As if!
This gifted chef and writer is undeniably well-versed in his NYC. I can already tell his challenge is going to open my eyes to a whole new side of the city – not to mention run me all around it like a crazy person! As John put it, I’ll be “living a week in John DeLucie’s New York.” It all starts tomorrow and I can’t wait. Now, without further ado:
THE RULES
1. Visit the Guggenheim. Learn and report back 3 new things.
2. Get Italian food at Ballato. Bring flowers to Emilio, the chef. See if he’ll make me the Pacari.
3. Go to the Village Vanguard. See a high quality jazz show. Before going, research who’s performing and then review them after.
4. Go to Dim Sum GoGo. Get the vegetarian dim sum.
5. Go to Taim. Get falafel.
6. Go to Smalls Jazz Club on a Sunday night to hear the brilliant vocalist Marion.
7. Go to Zibetto Espresso bar. Get a cappuccino.
8. Go to Via Quadronno. Get a cappuccino and the Morta Della Panini. Compare the two cappuccinos.
9. Go see that new move “The Girlfriend Experience.” Let me know how it is and if it’s worth going.
10. Go to Barnes and Noble and see how many copies of The Hunger I can sell.
11. Give directions to tourists.
12. Take the subway.
13. People to meet:
• Charlie Horne, director of the Phillips de Pury Auction House
• Maureen Sarro, director of the Friedrich Petzel Gallery
14. Attend John’s private book reception in Gramercy on Tuesday night.
THE PRIZE
A custom-made Chef’s Tasting Dinner for Two at The Waverly Inn
Wolfgang Puck
Your non-culinary role model?
Miles Davis
Best brunches in NY?
Cook Shop, Saint Ambrose, Extra Virgin
Most enjoyable outdoor seating?
Morandi (Cue: 360° rotation of my head. Agreed.)
Best egg shooters?
Jean George
Best fries?
Waverly
Best 3am pit stop?
It’s on Bleecker. A Greek diner. I’ll think of it. (He never did. But in fairness, it’s 3am and you’re on your way to make some highly questionable eating decisions. Forgiven.)
Best décor wasted on the worst food?
If I have to answer that I’d say… Tavern on the Green
Best food wasted on the worst décor?
Little joint in Chinatown – on Pell street (It’s called Famous Sichuan. Clearly not famous enough.)
Place whose scene comes closest to yours?
Monkey Bar (Dumb question, Michelle. Graydon could probably single-handedly overturn the entire
New York restaurant business.)
What’s your everyday diet like?
I’m pretty lean right now. Coffee and egg whites, not a lot of red meat. (Crushing the round-man-in-a-chef's-hat stereotype, one espresso at a time. Looking good!)
Which bothers you more: light on the butter, or sauce on the side?
Doesn’t bother me.
What’s more insulting: adding salt or adding ketchup?
Neither… do what you need to do.
So that whole “chef getting mad” thing is all a myth?
No, some chefs get mad. I’ve resigned myself a long time ago that I’m never going to teach people ho
w to eat. If you want to put ketchup on your eggs, do it. (Phew.)
Do you like all-you-can-eat buffets?
NO, nono. Fine for some. Bad for others.
What is the most un-tried food out there that should be tried by all?
Sea urchin and monkfish. Also, Italian Botargo mullet roe. (Fact: Mullet roe is extremely patriotic. They prefer to be explicitly differentiated by country, each campaigning its unique, superior qualities. Much like people. Google it, you will see! More on my newfound fascination with Roe, coming soon.)
Most underused, underrated ingredient there is?
Salt.
Most overused, cop-out ingredient there is?
Truffle oil. (Clearly I’m eating at the wrong places...)
What do you think of Googling recipes?
Oh. I Google recipes.
Giant plates with tiny food?
No.
Tables for one?
Lovely.
Last place you ate?
Uhh… the Waverly.
Okay John, before that.
Via Quadrono
Newest place you can’t wait to try?
(John frantically scans his prized little West Village corner back and forth, searching for an answer. Pause. Sigh.) You know I live in a bubble…
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